Latest review:
Isca is one of the most exciting additions to the Sussex dining scene and already feels like somewhere worth travelling for. What makes it special isn’t just the food, but the way the gardens, setting and hospitality come together to create something genuinely distinctive.
We started outside in the spectacular sunshine with a margarita infused with homegrown Sichuan peppercorns. It was extraordinary. Bright, fragrant and gently tingling, it was one of those drinks that immediately makes you want a second. Remarkably, it’s made without tequila, reflecting Isca’s commitment to sourcing ingredients as locally and regionally as possible.
Before dinner, we were warmly greeted by the team and encouraged to explore the gardens. The staff were friendly, knowledgeable and attentive throughout the entire evening. Wandering through the potager before sitting down for dinner added another dimension to the experience. Beetroot, rhubarb, chard and countless other ingredients are grown on site, creating a genuine connection between the gardens and what’s served on the plate. The restaurant is also supplied by Trenchmore Farm, renowned for producing some of the finest Wagyu beef in the UK.
It’s rare to find a restaurant where the surroundings are as memorable as the food. Housed within a beautifully restored Victorian glasshouse at Borde Hill, Isca offers one of the most distinctive dining settings in Sussex. Arriving early to wander through the gardens before settling down for dinner as the evening light streams through the glass makes the experience feel about much more than just a meal.
For starters, we chose the trout with labneh and the mushroom tart. The trout was the standout. Light, fresh and beautifully balanced, it’s the perfect summer dish and one I’d highly recommend. The mushroom tart was equally impressive, featuring mushrooms prepared three different ways and delivering wonderful depth of flavour and texture.
The mains continued the high standard. The lamb, served as two cutlets alongside a rich piece of belly, was superb. The sea bass carried a gentle heat and was beautifully balanced, allowing the quality of the fish to shine through. However, the side of potatoes may have stolen the show. Somewhere between dauphinoise and roast potatoes, they are boiled, roasted and then fried, creating a crisp shell around a rich, soft centre. I’d happily return for those alone.
From start to finish, the service struck exactly the right balance: attentive without ever feeling intrusive. Combined with the stunning gardens, the beautiful Victorian glasshouse and the thoughtful cooking, Isca delivers an experience that feels both relaxed and special.
Sussex isn’t short of excellent restaurants, but very few combine food, gardens and atmosphere this successfully. Isca feels genuinely unique, and after one visit it’s already somewhere I’m looking forward to returning to.
Must order: The Sichuan peppercorn margarita, the trout with labneh and the crispy potatoes.
