The Abbey Inn Review

Relaunched in May 2023 as the latest restaurant from celebrity chef Tommy Banks, The Abbey Inn is a country pub sat in the village of Byland, overlooking the famed Byland Abbey. The pub is just over a mile away from Mr Banks' original restaurant The Black Swan (where I'd enjoyed a very good meal a few years ago) and having been awarded a Michelin Guide listing in September 2023, I was reasonably expectant of a quality meal (despite some fairly inconsistent online reviews from regular punters) as I rocked up for lunch with my wife and two young children, on a sunny February Saturday.

There's a sizeable car park behind the pub, but even just after 12 on a Saturday this was already pretty full when we arrived, however we managed to squeeze in fortunately. The pub and grounds look suitability smart externally, and that theme continues inside, it's clear a lot of effort went into making this such an attractive venue. The welcome on arrival was really warm and we were shown to our table in the main dining area.

I really liked the dining room, and our table (to the side of the wider part of the room) was spacious and perfect for us with two young(ish) children. I would say some of the other tables were quite a lot closer together and getting to the toilet at the far end of the room was a bit of a squeeze, but I appreciate the need to get as many covers in as possible in this day and age. Coats were taken and we were first presented with a drinks menu to select some drinks before being given any food menus which is a touch unusual, but not really an issue for me.

Drinks wise, there's a considered and interesting offering including a good number of cocktails, a substantial number of wines by the glass and a slightly-better-than-average non-alcoholic selection too. I enjoyed a couple of Pollination gin and tonics with my meal whilst my wife and kids sampled a number of the non-alcoholic options, including some seasonal cordial.

On offer at lunch is a fairly sizeable three course menu (plus an extra specials sheet), and there's a children's menu too which although quite small (four mains, one dessert) was still appreciated. Lunch began for me with the Douglas fir cured salmon, served with fermented fennel, whipped buttermilk and rye croutons. I've had quite a lot of salmon, cream and green dishes over the years (usually they're a bit boring), but I have to say this was a top class plate, the salmon was delicious and the fermented fennel was a revelation.

My wife was equally impressed with a lovely fresh dish of beetroot and horseradish ewe's curd, whilst my daughter (given there were no starters on the children's menu) had the seed and mead sourdough bread. The bread was good (albeit I believe not made in house) and accompanied by a generous helping of butter and pounded cheese, but delivering only two slices did feel slightly on the mean side. My young son was perfectly happy with a portion of pork fat fries, which he described as "the best chips ever".

After the starters were cleared, the timing before the mains to be delivered was spot on (quite a rarity nowadays). I went for the roasted venison haunch, which included two chunks of venison, a glazed faggot, Jerusalem artichoke puree and a barbecued Roscoff onion, served with a mini pan of jus on the side. Technically, this was another very accomplished and high class piece of cooking with all the elements executed well (albeit my venison did bleed a little bit on cutting). It did lack a little bit of the wow factor I'd been hoping for flavour wise, but that's a minor complaint.

My wife had the sausages and mash which was pretty much the best (and tastiest) version of sausages and mash either of us has had previously, it was a really accomplished dish packed full of flavour. My daughter had the kids cheeseburger and fries from the children's menu which was without fault also.

After some delicious savoury courses, there was absolutely no chance of us leaving without dessert, and these didn't disappoint either. I had the dark chocolate, artichoke and salted caramel delice, served with chicory ice cream. I really enjoyed this, it was another technically impressive plate and it tasted great. My wife was equally impressed with a super espresso and clotted cream creme brulee, served with a brown butter madeleine cake on the side. It was one of the best tasting creme brulee's we've had in a very long time.

My daughter had the Douglas fir and blackcurrant sundae (from a range of three homemade ice cream options) which was excellent also, whilst my son was perfectly happy with the only dessert on the children's menu; warm chocolate cookie chunks sat atop some thoroughly decent yoghurt ice cream.

And so after collecting the bill with no issue, a delicious and very enjoyable lunch came to an end. I have to say the standard of food we were served was excellent and quite a lot better than I'd been expecting in all honesty. The service too was superb; everyone we dealt with was so warm and friendly, the menu pacing was spot on and the level of attentiveness throughout the meal was exactly right for me.

So why are there so many less than stellar reviews online from regular customers? Well for me, the reasons are pretty simple. Firstly I think being awarded "best Sunday lunch in the UK" by some publication is a bit of a poison chalice; the expectations for that will be off the scale and the only way is down really, a lot of reviews relate to that. Secondly, there's no denying the pricing is high (complete with a 12.5% service charge) and the portions aren't large; there will always be people who take issue with that for a pub lunch.

But personally, I don't care if others don't agree, because we had a great family friendly lunch here; the food was excellent, the service superb, and I'd be delighted to visit again at any point in future.