Treby Arms Review

Situated in Sparkwell on the edge of the picturesque Dartmoor National Park in Devon, the Treby Arms is a pub with a growing reputation and an ever increasing glut of industry awards. Chef patron Anton Piotrowski may have previously found fame by winning Masterchef: The Professionals, but having become the first contestant from that show to capture a precious star from our favourite tyre munching inspectors, this is now very much a dining destination in its own right. It was therefore with great anticipation that I ventured across for lunch on a Monday with my wife and young daughter.

On arrival we were shown to our table upstairs; the pub has a good clean feel with big wooden tables, a smattering of rural bits and bobs on the walls and a sort of view into the kitchen. I really liked the feel of the place (right down to the completely unmatched bread plates; every one was different) and although it is at the smarter end of pub dining, there was no problem whatsoever from any of the staff with our young daughter throughout the meal. I perused the menus whilst sipping on my usual G&T before opting for the carte; there's a lot to be said for a kitchen that can offer a set lunch menu, the carte and both tasting menus on a Monday lunch time.

After some very fresh and tasty bread complete with marmite flavoured butter, lunch began for me with the duck cigar. It was a very accomplished dish with confit duck wrapped in a tube; the only change I would make would be to have a little more of the hoisin style sauce. I couldn't resist a black pudding scotch egg alongside it which was suitably scrumptious too. My wife had the rabbit lasagne which was delicious and for my daughter, a half portion of the fish and chips went down very well (and there was no issue with delivering that with our starters).

For mains, I enjoyed a delightful rabbit loin dish, complete with various perfectly cooked accompaniments, a splendid main course indeed. My wife had the duck which was very much enjoyed also. I wasn't expecting too much from the desserts, but the carrot cake served in a plant pot (a signature of the restaurant) was absolutely delicious; probably the best carrot cake I've ever eaten and worthy of the accompanying smoky theatre when it was delivered. My wife also loved her lemon meringue dessert, too much to let me try any sadly but it looked beautiful on the plate.

Lunch finished with a nice coffee and a couple of chocolaty petit fours presented in a smart box, a suitable end to what was an outstanding meal. There's some really high quality cooking on display here which when combined with the good service (albeit with a 12.5% service charge) and great venue makes for a truly top drawer restaurant. I wish I lived closer as I'd be here a lot; probably for the best then that I don't!