Kala Review

It has been over six years since my first visit to Kala in Manchester city centre, part of the Elite Bistros group from chef Gary Usher. I'd been back since then but only for a quick bite, and I was booked in during the dreaded covid period but my reservation was cancelled by the restaurant due to staff illness. So, after an enjoyable first visit all those years ago, I was well overdue a full three course return as I rocked up for a late lunch with a friend, on a drizzly June Saturday.

The welcome on arrival from the gentleman on the front desk was very warm and friendly, and after having my jacket taken, I had a drink at the bar downstairs with my friend who had already arrived. Internally, although I'm sure there have been some changes since my last visit, the space was very much as I remembered with plenty of light which I always think is a plus in a lunchtime venue.

I'd arrived maybe ten minutes before our reservation time but whilst sitting at the bar it got to around fifteen minutes past our booking and we hadn't been invited upstairs to the dining area, and there was no one really around downstairs by that point. I think in fairness the staff just expected we'd make our way up when ready (and why not, my name is on the founders wall after all!) which we cautiously did, before being given a choice of tables to sit at. Even towards the end of what would be a normal lunch service time (the restaurant is open right through until dinner) there were a good few tables in which was great to see.

On offer at lunch is a solid looking three course menu with around six choices per course, and it features a lot of familiar-loooking Elite Bistros dishes. Drinks wise there's a concise but considered wine and drinks list; we enjoyed a bottle of thoroughly decent Kleine Oranjerie Viognier with our meal at £30 for a wine that retails for around £11 (so a fairly standard markup). There's a larger-than-average selection of non-alcoholic options too, including several cocktails.

Lunch for me began with a crab cake, golden raisins, toasted almonds, curried mayonnaise and a soft-boiled egg. This was a pleasant enough dish; the crab cake didn't carry as much sea-based flavour as I'd been hoping for, but the accompanying elements were all tasty and the mayonnaise packed a decent level of heat.

My main of chicken schnitzel with a shawarma spiced butter was another dish that carried some heat and was very enjoyable, the chicken was nicely cooked and flavoursome and came with a white cabbage and onion salad, as well as a nice dollop of yoghurt to balance out the heat. My friend enjoyed his confit duck leg also.

Of course, there was no chance of me leaving without dessert (although my friend passed), this time I went for the set vanilla cream, with a rhubarb and rose granita, and a pistachio sable biscuit on the side. This was nothing complicated, but the set cream was delicious and I enjoyed all the other elements too.

And that was pretty much that; after collecting our bill (complete with an automatically included 10% service charge) with no fuss, our meal came to an end. Overall I found this a very enjoyable lunch; the food was good without being spectacular, but I think that's exactly the aim here. I remember on my first visit all those years ago (not long after the place opened) the cooking was fancier (and the prices were higher) and I did fear that might be difficult to maintain, so I think they've done exactly the right thing by adopting the more standard Elite Bistros style menu and pricing.

Service too was very good; the gentleman and lady who served us were great, warm and attentive which is just what you want, and the menu pacing was spot on also with no long waits between courses.

I'm sure it's not been easy in the past six years (particularly with two years of covid) to keep a restaurant in a prime central location afloat, but having seen many established restaurants in Manchester sadly close during that period, I think for Kala to still be here and going strong six years on is a phenomenal achievement, and an achievement for which all involved should be very proud. Long may it continue.